Create Your Own Sweatshirts

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STRAIGHT OUTTA – add your text here/create own Sweatshirt

White & Turquoise Adults Sports Football Jersey Sweatshirt

Create Your Instagram Selfies 9 images + NAME! Sweatshirt

White & Blue Toddler Sports Jersey Design Sweatshirt

Sweater shirt of group of its own design

Navy & White Toddler Sports Jersey Sweatshirt

Gray & Black Toddler Sports Jersey Sweatshirt

Create Boys Custom Hanes Crew Neck Sweatshirt

Snenandoah National Park Custom Add Your Photo Sweatshirt

Royal Blue & Orange Adults Sports Jersey Design Sweatshirt

Custom Designs Make Your Own Sweatshirt

Keep Calm and Create Your Own Make Add Text Here Sweatshirt

Keep Calm and Create Your Own Make Add Text Here Sweatshirt

Create your own Drink Coffee SaveLife Reduce Crime Sweatshirt

Custom Wedding Boys Hanes Sweatshirt Template

Marthas Vineyard Souvenir Sweatshirt

Create Your Own Football Player Team Jersey Jacket

Create your own hakuna matata Canada Butterfly Sweatshirt

College or High School Student Varsity Sweatshirt

Be creative create your own gift design sweatshirt

Moustache and Blue Sunglasses Humour Sweatshirt

Custom Personalized Womens BASIC SWEATSHIRT

Forest Green & White Adults Sports Jersey Design Sweatshirt

Navy & Turquoise Toddler Sports Football Jersey Sweatshirt

Create Custom Girls Hanes Sweatshirt

Template Mens Sweatshirs Sweatshirt

White & Blue Adults Sports Jersey Design Sweatshirt

Gray & Yellow Adults Sports Jersey Design Sweatshirt

Create Custom Mens Embroidered Crewneck Sweatshirt

Cool Hip Hop Brick Wall Background Template Sweatshirt

Create Your Own Custom Design! Sweatshirt

Plain Heather Gray Personalized Sweatshirt

Personalized floral your text here sweatshirt

Custom Womens Crewneck Embroidered Sweatshirt

Akuna Matata Hakuna Matata gifts latest beautiful Sweatshirt

Dream, Create, Make Your Image Here Apparel Sweatshirt

White Chain Link Ring Circle Monogram Sweatshirt

DIY, Create your own home, office and business Sweatshirt

Pink & Dark Purple Kids Sports Jersey Design Sweatshirt

Royal Blue & Orange Toddler Sports Jersey Design Sweatshirt

Gray & Black Kids Sports Jersey Sweatshirt

White & Golden Yellow Kids Sports Jersey Sweatshirt

Straight Outta Add Your Location Activity Text on Embroidered Sweatshirt

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Captain and boat name with anchor polo shirt

The Gildan Jersey Polo Shirt is a must-have …

Captain and boat name with anchor polo shirt

The Gildan Jersey Polo Shirt is a must-have for summer days. Made of 100% cotton, this top will keep you comfortable no matter how hot the weather gets. Wear it while doing yardwork, playing volleyball on the beach, or simply …Learn More

Mens American Apparel Fine Jersey V-neck T-Shirt

Comfortable, casual and loose fitting, our heavyweight t-shirt will easily become a closet staple. Made from 100% cotton, it wears well on anyone. Weve double-needle stitched the bottom and sleeve hems for extra durability. Size & Fit Model is 61 …Learn More

Mens Womens March SLO January Event T-Shirt

Comfortable, casual and loose fitting, our heavyweight dark color t-shirt will quickly become one of your favorites. Made from 100% cotton, it wears well on anyone. Weve double-needle stitched the bottom and sleeve hems for extra durability. Select a design …Learn More

We promise 100% satisfaction.If you dont absolutely love it, well take it back!

Family Crest

See your crest on a Framed Panel Print

See your crest on a Hooded Sweatshirt

Add your text and select your colours and symbols below.

Why not see what your family crest could look like based on your own family characteristics?

Then enter your family motto. Dont have one? Be creative!

Choose two crest colours based on the family characteristics offered. Remember if you choose the same qualities for both colours it will be the same colour!

Choose a shield based on the family characteristics offered.

Choose an icon based on the family characteristics offered.

Enjoy your new family crest! Right click on your mouse to save your new family crest.

Have you done something cool with your crest?

Send us your photos of how you used your newly purchased family crest and enter a prize draw for a $30 Amazon voucher.

Traditional family crests stemmed from heraldic arms, also known as coat of arms or armorial bearings. Heraldic arms were common throughout Europe in the Middle Ages (the 1000 years between the 5th and the 16th century).

Historically heraldic arms were a design belonging to a particular person or group of people. These designs tended to be used by knights and noble men to identify them apart from enemy soldiers. In such traditions these coat of arms were passed from father to son or from wife to daughter.

Over time the use of such crests moved from the military to families, regions and other institutions such as educational institutions.

In times past your own family ancestors would have approached a heraldic artist or officer of arms to design your family crest. Your ancestors would have chosen attributes of that family that the officer of arms would depict in the family crest. These attributes would tend have been depicted through various shield designs, colour(s) and symbols, known as charges, such as animals and plant designs.

MyTribe101 Ltd., 5th Floor, Block B,

Castleforbes House, Dublin 1, Ireland.

Create A Robe Pattern

Using your own sweatshirt or tee shirt pattern, you can make a button-up robe with side pockets. It is easy to alter patterns to make just about anything. I used a basic pull-over sweatshirt pattern as a start up guide to make this childs comfy, button-up robe – with pockets!

By using a favorite tee shirt or sweatshirt pattern as a guide, and making changes like those shown on this page, you can create your own custom pattern.

Follow these steps to convert your sweatshirt pattern into a robe pattern.

These instructions are assuming a .25 (1/4) seam allowance.

To start, trace the sweatshirt or tee shirt pattern onto butcher paper. I used an actual pattern. Merely tracing a tee shirt is not really very accurate. Trace the front, back and sleeve pattern pieces.

Cut the neck opening a bit larger in the front.

NOTE: If you wish to add pockets, refer toinstructions for side seam pocketsin my free online sewing book.

Draw a line down the center of the front section. Fold the front pattern piece lengthwise down the center and mark center. Redraw 1/2 of the front piece, adding 1 inch to the center side (this adds .75 inches, plus a .25 seam allowance).

Add to the length of the pattern, as needed for the length of the robe. Widen the piece at the base to allow for walking. Add the same length to the back piece as you added to the front. The side seams of the back must be exactly the same length as the side seam of the front. Be sure to allow for a hem. Refer to the sketches.

You will need a facing for the neckline and center front sections. This is due to the fact that you will not be adding ribbing to the neck, and you will need to finish off the center front for buttons and button holes. Place a new piece of paper over your front and back pattern pieces. Trace a facing that runs around the edge of the pattern pieces. See figure below. The figure shows how the facing fits to the original pattern piece.

Using facing pattern pieces, cut facings and interfacing for your facings. Cut two opposite facings and two opposite interfacings (see next paragraph).

Cut two opposite front pieces from your outer fabric (fold your fabric lengthwise, then place the pattern piece onto the fabric and cut through both layers – this will give you a right and left piece).

Cut out two sleeves from your fabric. Your sleeves can be finished with a hem, or ribbing.Go to Ribbing Lesson

Sew front and back robe pieces together at shoulder seams.

Sew sleeves into place at shoulders.Go to Sleeve Lesson

Sew front facings to back facing, right sides together. Add interfacing (if you want it). You will now have one long facing that will run around the entire inside edge of the robe (across the back neckline and down the two front center areas). Sew the facing to the robe, right sides together. Turn robe right side out. Press.

Line up the original center lines of the front. Remember that we added 1 beyond the center of each front piece. This would have created an overlap of 2, except that each side has a 1/4 hem, which uses up 1/2 inch. Your overlap area should be 1.5. This strip will be used for buttons and buttonholes. Add buttons and buttonholes. For lessons on buttonholes, refer toButtonholesin our free sewing book.

Hem the bottom and sleeves (or add ribbing to the sleeves).

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By using our website, you expressly consent to ourPrivacy PolicyandTerms & Conditions. All Patterns, images and instructions are copyright protected.


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Transform soft, comfy sweatshirts into one-of-a-kind pieces of clothing that express your own personal style. Start with basic alterations, then add specialty touches to create stylish cardigans, vests and pullovers. Along the way, youll discover fun and unique treatments for neckline, sleeve, hem and trim variations.


Discover Mary Mulari and Nancy Ziemans ideas for upgrading sweatshirtsthis DVD set takes it up a notch to make interesting and fashionable items for your wardrobe. Learn how to take very basic sweatshirts and turn them into one-of-a-kind items. With creative cutting and stitching, youll twist, turn, and stitch your sweats into your own personal style statement.

Watch five complete programs in the DVD set, as Nancy and Mary demonstrate how to turn the humble sweatshirt into a fashion statement with style and personality. 50 innovative makeovers are laid out for you over the course of fiveSewing With Nancyepisodesthats 3-3/4 hours of watch time!

230 minute run-time, closed captioning for the hearing impaired.

Plus, youll get even more techniques with the free book: The Best Sweatshirt Makeovers Book. Add plackets, zippers, simple applique, and so much more. This collection of five books in one boasts 56 sweatshirt transformations for adults and kids. As an added bonus, it features a Sweatshirt Gallery with over a dozen designs chock-full of even more fresh ideas! Full-color photos and illustrations accompany step-by-step instructions and full-size pattern pieces. Soft cover, 116 pages.

The Best Sweatshirt Makeovers DVD Set

Nancy and Mary reveal over 50 innovative sweatshirt makeovers:

Converting sweatshirts into cardigans or vests

Recreating necklines with a variety of features

Transforming front openings with plackets, ribbing bands, or facings

Add unique closures like twisted loops, ties, elastic loops, zippers or buttonholes

Change the neckline by altering the original or add facings

Dress up necklines with basic or cowl collars, plackets, or pleated trim

Modernize the hemline removing the lower band and reshaping using vents or facings

Add a variety of embellishments like prairie points, appliques, chenille, or patchwork blocks

Refresh the look with embroidery designs, reversible applique, decorative fabric strips and more

Transform a basic childs sweatshirt into a one-of-a-kind fashion statement with style and personality

The 3-3/4 hour compilation DVD set includes:

Sweatshirt Makeovers for Kids: 24 minutes

Sweatshirts for All Seasons: 26 minutes

230 minute run time, closed captioning for the hearing impaired

The Best Sweatshirt Makeovers Book (free with DVD Set)

A compilation of Mary and Nancys five sweatshirt books:

Full-size applique and pattern pieces are also included for select makeovers. Double-wire binding allows pages to stay flat while you work. Soft cover, 116 page book by Mary Mulari and Nancy Zieman.

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Rush Delivery: This shipping method is temporarily unavailable.

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CANADIAN DELIVERY = Standard delivery rate + $10

Express Delivery, 2nd Day, or Next Day delivery is not available.

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Some countries have a size restriction; please be aware of your countrys limitations before ordering.

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be cancelled unless delivery is expected in a day or two. We may hold your order, pending delivery of back ordered items, in an attempt to ship as much merchandise as possible.

Electrical items, such as irons, and ALL items with SHIPPING RESTRICTIONS

Some items have shipping restrictions attached to them. These items cannot ship via Express 2nd Day Delivery, nor can they ship outside the contiguous USA. This may be due to their size, weight or content such as aerosol, flammable, combustible products, with the latter having strict shipping regulations attached.

Some oversized or overweight large items cost considerably more to ship and require additional shipping charges. The fee is in addition to the Standard Delivery Rate.

The promise Nancy made more than 30 years ago still stands today. At Nancys Notions, your 100% satisfaction is guaranteed. If, for any reason, at any time, youre not completely satisfied with an items quality, please return it for a refund, an exchange, or a credit of the purchase price.

1.Can I return software?Yes, even after youve installed the software on your computer. Simply uninstall the software and return the complete package.

2.Can I return embroidery designs?Yes, go ahead and break the package seal. If you dont care for how your new designs stitch, return the opened CD. Simply delete any designs you already loaded to your computer, memory cards, jump drives, or sewing machine.

3.Can I return cut fabric?Yes. Go ahead. Prewash and cut your fabric. If you dont like how it sews, return it. Its that simple.

Learn more about how toreturn or exchangean item you purchased from Nancys Notions.

The TV show was exciting with new and beautiful ideas. I am ordering one now.

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Zip Hoodies

This polycotton fleece Zip Hoodie is one of best sellers. Quality down to the smallest detail and is completely customizable to make it your own. We craft it from a premium 330gsm Polycotton fleece, so its built to last you through years of wear and memories. With our transparent pricing you always know what to expect.

With quality fleece your Zip Hoodie will always look as good as the first time you wore it. We use premium quality cotton for warmth and comfort and add polyester to strengthen the cottons soft fibers to extend the life of your Zip Hoodie. Our Zip Hoodies are 100% cotton facing to avoid balling, known as pilling, on the fabrics surface. Our soft-feel heavy weight 330gsm 70/30 polycotton fleece is constructed to keep your Zip Hoodie looking and feeling new for a long time into the future.

Your Zip Hoodie includes everything here. No surprises.

Embroidery on your garment is a premium option for those who want to outshine the rest. Our multiple head embroidery machines import your digital files for designs, logos and colours so that you get a premium embroidered garment made to your exact specifications. Embroidery colours are not limited to Reform Standard Colours, which means that designs limitations are almost non-existent.

There is no other group quite like yours which is why your Zip Hoodie should be a reflection of who you are, built just for you right down to the smallest detail. Starting with a blank canvas your design is built from scratch where every piece of fabric is cut and sewn to your specific requirements.

Use our Design Lab to create your own awesome designs. The power to create your custom Zip Hoodie on-the-run or during group meetings right at your finger tips. Choose your styles, colours, designs, nicknames and then share your creation with your friends.

Your creative ideas deserve the attention of a super talented real-life designer. Our inhouse design team have years of experience in designing custom garments and they can use that to help you create your perfect Zip Hoodie. We take the time to understand your ideas and bring your ideas to life. We wont rest until you love the end result.

If you can dream it, we can build it. If you have the skills we are happy to take a backseat while you take the reigns in the creative process. Using your files and colours to build your Zip Hoodie to your exact specifications.

Always read the care label and washing instructions before washing.

Do not iron prints, trims or embellishments.

Do not leave garments with white and contrast colored panels soaking for prolonged periods.

The care label washing temperature is the highest permitted temperature.

Please Note:These measurements are based on measuring a similar garment out flat on a table, and measuring across the 3 front points shown in the picture ONLY. Do not measure around a physical body.

Individual finished garment measurements may vary by +/- .6 inch. As our garments are custom made to order, we dont offer exchanges or refunds for incorrect sizes or change of mind.

Personalized T Shirt Printing Dubai T Shirt Factory

TshirtFly is a creative platform where you can find and design personalized gifts online. Our design boasts some of the best creative designer. We will design your tshirt or personalise products according to your taste and preferences. You can create your own design and add some unique messages on your personalised gift and we will ensure to bring out the awesome in it with passion in making your dream design in real. Tshirtfly features 100+ unique products and 1000+ community designs for all tshirt printing and gift requirement. Feel free to pick your own tshirt or custom products like iphones,hats or hoodies and customize it with your own design,image or text.

Custom printed items is one of the best gifts for your friends or family. Thats not all! You can also sell your designs and get a you custom website site instantly and invite your friends or visitors to get your designs printed on Tshirts , Hoodies, mugs and other printable products. Check out our shop section to see the designs sent by our community. When you have an idea or want to send a gift, just upload it to your shop and invite customers to it and we will do handle everything for you! So, ready to shop or sell custom designs with Us!

Shipping All over UAE, Saudi Arabia and Bahrain

We currently ship all over Middle East including UAE, Saudi Arabia, Oman, Egypt, Lebanon and Bahrain.

5-7 days shipping ETA for international shipping & 1-2 days for UAE.


About: Ordinary guy with no special skills, just trying to change the world one backyard invention at a time. See more at: On Twitter – @300MPGBen and at

The finished project is a 1981 Kawasaki KZ440, converted to electric. It is powered by four Optima Yellow Top sealed (AGM) lead-acid batteries, that drive a Briggs & Stratton Etek electric motor. The speed of the motor is controlled by an Alltrax brand AXE programmable controller that can run at up to 48 volts and 300 amps. Contrary to popular belief, and electric motorcycle is NOT silent, but is CONSIDERABLY quieter than a typical gas cycle.

The cycle is GEARED to 45 mph, has fairly good acceleration, no clutch or transmission. Theres no oil to change, to mufflers to rust off, no air filter, no carbs to tweak, and no gasoline. I designed it for primarily city riding. The top speed and acceleration could be easily changed by swapping out a $20 stock sprocket.

The cycle recharges from the wall, through arenewable energy program, and if there is a blackout, I can actually run my house off my electric motorcycle! In the future, I hope to expand my system to include charging the cycle with photovoltaic solar panels. Real-world range per charge is 23-32 miles, and charging takes less than 10 hours for a full charge. ( A different charger could charge them even faster – see details on the Batteries PDF)

In this Instructable, Ill walk you through the work required with the motor, batteries, controller, and mounting all components, including showing you some low-tech paper and cardboard CAD tricks.

But what do you want? You might not even know yet. I always encourage people to take a look at theEV Album. Its an on-line listing of mostly home-converted electric vehicles. Each listing shows the make and model of the vehicle, the cost to convert, the speed and range, and other specifics of each project. You can also search by type of vehicle or brand name.

For example, if you go to youll see a wide variety of electric motorcycles. Different brand names, lithium and lead-acid battery types, and a wide range of costs of conversion. Likewise, if you want to see Scooters, Mopeds, and Minibikes, you can visit

Give some thought to what cycle you would like to convert. Do you like sport bikes? Great! They have a lightweight and strong aluminum frame! Do you like standard? Great! Theres lots of those out there and you can show off the motor and batteries. Hang out at biker events with your unique ride!

If you arent sure what to expect in terms of range per charge and top speed, dont worry, online calculators can help you out.

For more on my electric motorcycle,electric car, and other projects, swing by my blog at

If you are interested in building your own electric motorcycle, but want even more information, more details, and hands-on style instruction, check out theINSTRUCTIONAL VIDEO DVDthat I created to teach how ANYONE canBuild Your Own Electric Motorcycle!

As of January 2018, Ive now posted the Instructional DVD, the entire 2 hours and 40 minutes of it, FOR FREE on YouTube. The DVD is broken down into shorter sections and available as a playlist.

It may be cliche, but every shop class, repair book, and seminar starts off talking about safety.

The reason why is because ITS IMPORTANT! Any type of work always has some sort of risk to it. Minimize that risk, and protect yourself by thinking ahead and using proper safety equipment.

Ill hit a few of the basics here, as well as a few you may not have thought of that are particular to this project.

Wear yoursafety glasses, work gloves, and hearing protection. If you already wear eyeglasses, the larger boxy type safety glasses work well over your eyeglasses. Otherwise, add side protectors to your existing glasses. If you dont wear eye-glasses, I like the the slimmer style that fit tight to the face. This is the same type some motorcycle riders wear out on the road. Heck, get yourself a nice pair, and they are multipurpose!

Wearingwork-gloveswill save your hands a lot of cuts and scrapes. Thick leather gloves are durable, but clumsy. Mechanics gloves give you much more dexterity. I prefer these, as I can leave the gloves on while using any type of tool. If you have to take gloves on and off to use a particular tool, it doesnt take long to give up on wearing gloves. Wear welding gloves when welding. Latex or other rubber gloves are sometimes handy for working with fluids or while painting.

Wearhearing protection. During any drilling, cutting, or grinding, you should be wearing hearing protection. Soft ear plugs are cheap and disposable, and pretty comfortable. I like the big ear-muffs because they are easier to take on and off than soft plugs are to take in and out. I like having normal hearing while I am not cutting and grinding.

Remove jewelry, or at least cover it up. Besides getting caught on a moving part, most jewelry is also extremely electrically conductive. Remove rings, wrist-watches, necklaces, wallet chains, and that big key chain hanging on your belt loop. Dont wear big conductive belt buckles that can also scratch paint-jobs. If you cant or wont remove a piece of jewelry (wedding rings, etc.), cover it up. Wearing work gloves will cover a ring, and a necklace can be tucked inside your shirt.

Clothing.Im sure youve worked on enough projects that you know what appropriate clothing is. Typically, you want long shirt sleeves and long pants. Dont cuff your pants. Metal shavings, dirt, and possibly hot metal likes to get caught in there. Wear closed-toe shoes or boots, preferably leather, and safety toe if you have them. Natural fiber clothing is also preferable. In a bad situation synthetic fibers can melt (onto a person!) At least wear a cotton T-shirt under your fleece sweatshirt….

Now onto a few things that are more specific to this project.

Motocycles are powerful, heavy enough to hurt if they fall on you, have chains and sprockets, and run on electricity by the time we are done with it.

That brings up a few safety cautions of particular concern:

Pinch Points:Be really careful where the chain and sprockets come together! Always make sure you have the chain guard in place. Build a custom chain guard if the project requires it. I once got my finger pinched between the chain and back sprocket when I was adjusting the chain. YEOWCH! That was just with me turning the back wheel slightly by hand. Id hate to imagine if the same thing happened with the motor running!

Electric Spark and Shock:Always keep covers on the battery terminals. Never work on the cycle with the power connected. Always have the real wheel off the ground when testing the vehicle. Keep conductive materials away from the batteries. 48 volts is right on the border of what is generally considered low-voltage or not. Risk of shock is fairly minimal, but all electricity should be taken seriously. SPARK is a greater concern. 48V short circuited has the potential to create large sparks that can melt battery terminals and propel molten lead. Always wear safety glasses when working on batteries and battery connections.

I recommend covering the handles of your battery wrenches with shrink tubing. You get a nice snug grip on your wrench and greatly increase its electrical resistance. You could also use electrical tape, but thats just going to make everything sticky eventually.

Lifting and Jacking:Chances are, you will want your cycle elevated. It makes it much easier to work on, as it prevents you from bending over, and working from floor level. I recommend a motorcycle lift. A small, sturdy table can also make a good stand, but its challenging to get the cycle on and off that stand safely.

Whether using a lift, jack, or stand, make sure the cycle is SECURELY attached to it with straps or some other means. An elevated vehicle could easily become unbalanced while working on it, falling off the stand, damaging the motorcycle or landing on you, your other projects, or someone you love.

Use your multimeter correctly.Many typical multimeters allow for you to test voltage, amperage, and resistance. To test amperage, you have to physically move one of the probes to a different jack on the multimeter. MAKE SURE YOU MOVE IT BACK when you are done with the amperage test. Even if you flip the control on the multimeter back to voltage reading, but forget to put the probe back in the right connection point, the next time you go to test voltage, you will melt the tip of the one probe off in about one billionth of a second. And it scared the bejeezers out of me. I mean you. In theory, if that happened, it would really startle you. So make sure you use your multimeter right.

Dont smoke: Smoking is a fire hazard. Especially when you take the gas tank off.

Dont drink alcoholwhile or before working on the project. It impairs judgement, and you might do something stupid. Likewise, do not drink, smoke, or do other drugs while RIDING. Go for a ride, come back, and THEN have your beer.

Isnt getting insurance the last thing you do before you go on the road?

You do NOT want to go through all the time and expense of building an awesome electric motorcycle, only to find that you can NOT legally ride it!

Some legal reasons you may not be able to legally ride your cycle in your area may be due toRegistration, Insurance, or License.

None of these things are that complicated, but you must comply with whatever the rules are in your area. (If you have a large private property, and will not be using this vehicle on-road, you may be able to ignore this.)

Registering your cycle should be done exactly the same way any typical gasoline powered cycle would be done in your area. In some places, cars are required to pass a smog test, but motorcycles are exempt from that. A vehicle may also be exempt from certain tests or requirements if over a certain age (Classic or Antique) or primarily for show and exhibition or part-time use (Hobbyist.)

It seems that motorcycles are sold much more often WITHOUT a title than cars ever are. Make sure you get a title and bill of sale with the VIN – (Vehicle Identification Number) printed on it. If you do NOT get a title, make sure that you will be able to get one. This can sometimes require additional cost, paperwork, and/or vehicle inspection. Sometimes an inspection may require a matching number on the frame, engine, and transmission. Because of that, I recommend registering your vehicle as it is BEFORE removing the engine or transmission, even if it doesnt run.

A VIN is extremely important. I personally know somebody who built a pretty nice electric motorcycle from scratch. He made EVERYTHING on it, from the frame on up. He couldnt get it registered or insured. Without a VIN, registration may be possible (but lots of jumping through hoops) but extremely difficult. Without a manufacturer Make and Model, he couldnt get insurance. Eventually, he just took the cycle apart and used the parts on other projects.

By CONVERTING an existing motorcycle to electric, we have the VIN, Make, and Model to make the project fit inside the box for the government and insurance.

INSURANCE:One of the first things I did before really getting going on this project was to call my full-service insurance agent. I told her exactly what I wanted to do. Motorcycles are commonly modified and customized. This was really no different. I had no problems getting insurance. My insurance is about $100 a year and provided through Progressive.

Before starting your project, talk to an insurance agent. The year, style, or engine size of the motorcycle frame may dramatically effect your rate. A 1500cc crotch-rocket is likely to cost more than a 250cc standard cycle. Since you are removing the engine anyways, just get a cycle that you like, with enough room in it for the motor and batteries.

License:If you dont already have a motorcycle drivers license, get one. I signed up for a course at my local college. Besides being excellent training for a first-time rider, the class also gave a benefit of streamlining the process (and reduced the cost!) of getting the motorcycle endorsement at the Department of Motor Vehicles. Even if you are a long-time rider, an electric motorcycle will perform slightly different than an engine powered machine. Some colleges and other training centers also offer advanced and specialized rider training.

I have heard of people converting a small to medium sized motorcycle to electric and getting it titled as a moped. In that case, you do not need a motorcycle endorsement, but you cant legally carry a passenger either. You may also be restricted to which roads you can ride on.

Once again, make sure you check AHEAD OF TIME on all the legal requirements in your area for vehicle operation. Its pretty exciting once your electro-cycle is completed, and youll want to be ready to hit the road!

Now that we made it through the basics of safety and legal, you want to start that search for your

. You may already have something thats been sitting around with a bad engine or transmission. Otherwise start looking for your cycle. You may want to check out Craigslist, the local newspaper classifieds, or stop and see every motorcycle for sale on the side of the road.

Besides just overall style and finding something that fits your budget, heres what to look for in the donor bike.

It might sound obvious, but get something thats in fairly good condition. You want to do a conversion, not a restoration! Make sure the turn signals and headlight work. The horn should work. It shouldnt be all rusted out. Get something that looks nice enough and will be fun to ride. If you happen to be somebody who regularly builds custom motorcycles and restorations, just ignore what I said. Go hog-wild instead. I do have to admit that the cycle I bought to convert to electric was not in very good shape. The price was right though. In the end, fixing all the little things on it took a fair amount of time and work. Looking back on it now, I would have preferred to spend a little more money and and have had fewer things to fix.


In this conversion, the original engine and transmission are NOT used. If you buy a motorcycle that is in pretty good condition OTHER than a bad engine or transmission, you might be able to get a really good deal on it. Just make sure to keep the engine and transmission with for a while to confirm proper registration.


If you choose to buy a cycle in good running condition, make sure to carefully remove the engine and transmission. Keep all the parts together, label everything, and keep it out of the weather. Sell the engine and tranny to make some money back on the purchase of the cycle.

Most motorcycles are driven by a chain, but some use a belt or even a driveshaft. Get a donor bike with a chain. This will give you the most flexibilty and efficiency. Chains are cheap, dont slip, and are easy to change gear ratios by swapping out an inexpensive sprocket. Electric motorcycles CAN be built with a belt or driveshaft, but it is more of an advanced project and has other considerations.

You will want a cycle with enough room in its guts for the motor and batteries. A too-small cycle will limit where you can put the motor and batteries, and how many batteries will fit. An extremely large cycle gives you plenty of room, but the frame may become heavy quickly. Popular choices include sport bikes and medium-size standard cycles.

Sport bikes typically have an aluminum frame (light-weight) and it is shaped with two supports over the engine, and two under it. This gives you a box to mount your batteries. Sport bikes also usually have some sort of plastic fairing over the engine. After conversion to electric, you can put the fairing back on, and look almost stock.

A medium-size standard will have two frame supports under the engine, which can be re-used as a base or tray for mounting the batteries. You will most likely want to avoid any cycle that has a single piece of frame above or below the engine. It just makes it more difficult to find a way to mount the batteries. You can always fabricate something custom, but its best to start with a solid foundation.

Most cycles have a mechanics repair manual available for them. You might be familiar with the Haynes or Chiltons brands for car repair. Find the book for your cycle. Although it wont cover the new custom electric system, it will tell you how to fix your brakes, align the chain, painting tips, general repair and maintenance, and have plenty of other useful information.

Once you have your donor bike, you need to De-ICE it. ICE stands for Internal Combustion Engine. Youll be removing the engine, the transmission, and anything else related to that system. That includes the gas tank, the exhaust pipes, and a radiator if it has one. Remove these parts carefully, so you can re-sell them.

You will want to know where to put the electric motor for the conversion. The easiest way to do that is simply to put the electric motor exactly where the output shaft of the transmission was. Locate where the chain goes to on the transmission end and mark that location on the frame. Use a wax pencil or silver marker with a speed square to put a mark on the frame both vertically and horizontally from the output shaft of the transmission. You will later use these marks to position the electric motor.

Add TipAsk QuestionCommentDownloadStep 4: Electric Motor

To power your motorcycle, youre going to need a motor. But what type, what size, and where do you get it from!?

This project used a Briggs & Stratton Etek. Its a DC (Direct Current), brushed, pancake motor, rated at up to 48V and 150 amps continuous. I got it used, through Craigslist, from a college student who built those robots that battled each other. He was using this motor to swing a hammer, but it was too powerful, and he kept breaking hammer handles!

Direct current motors are very straight forward. They are easy to control the speed of. Also, batteries use direct current. By using a DC motor, theres no intermediate step of converting DC battery power to AC power to run the motor.

The Briggs motor has eight holes on the end (the face) of the motor to make it easy to mount to a piece of flat steel or aluminum. Some motors have a foot on the bottom of them for mounting, which wouldnt have been as easy to use in this situation.

Permanent Magnet motors tend to be very compact. They create rotational energy (torque) by pushing two magnetic fields against each other. The one magnetic field is produced by current from the batteries (an electro-magnet). The other magnetic field is from mineral permanent magnets. These magnets are much more compact than a second electro-magnet would be, allowing for an overall powerful, yet small motor. The limiting factor in the design is the strength of the permanent magnetic field. Many permanent magnet motors spin equally well in either direction. Just swap the positive and negative battery cables for it to spin the other way. The permanent magnets are ALWAYS magnetic! So dont drop a washer near one of the vent slots, or it will get sucked in and you have to take the whole thing apart to get it out! Since then, I made sure ALL washers are stainless steel (not only are they corrosion-resistant, but they are non-magnetic as well.)

I chose this motor knowing that many other people had used the same one in their electric motorcycle designs.

Permanent magnet motors are generally designed to spin equally well in either direction. If the motor spins the opposite direction of what you intended, all you have to do is swap the two cables. On a large motorcycle, you could take advantage of this with a reversing contactor to have a reverse gear.

Electric motors are rated differently than gas engines are in terms of their power. A gas engine is rated in horsepower with the engine running at nearly maximum speed and fuel consumption (full-out!) An electric motor is rated at how much power is can put out continuously – for hours at a time. So, a horsepower rating between an engine and an electric motor is not apples to apples.

More and more engines are also now being rated in Watts. A watt is a unit of power used. Most people understand watts, as in that a 100-watt light bulb uses more power than a 75-watt lightbulb. It puts out more power (as light and heat) but also costs more on your electric bill.

In electric vehicle design, keep in mind that volts x amps = watts. Also, 1 Horsepower is roughly 746 watts. So, its pretty easy to do some simple math to figure out the power of our motor.

By being connected to four 12V batteries in series, the system nominal voltage is 48V. The motor is rated at 150 amps continuous. 48 x 150 = 7,200 watts. Divide that by 746 (watts to horsepower) and you get about 9.6 horsepower. That doesnt sound like a lot. However, you can pull much higher amperage briefly through the motor – typically three or four times as much. My system amperage is limited by the fact that the motor controller maxes out at 300 amps. That still means we can get DOUBLE the power out of the motor compared to what you might think it can produce, just based on the numbers stamped on it.

Combine that with increased efficiency (by completely losing the transmission) and the fact that you haveFULL TORQUEright off the line (a gas engine has to rev up to several thousand RPM to get into its best power band) and even a compact electric motor has far better acceleration than you think it might.

I later had my cycle tested on a dynometer at a large Harley-Davidson gathering. The cycle officially clocked-in as 12hp. But when the guy first went to ride the cycle up to the dyno, he almost threw himself off with how quick it accelerated!

What other motors might you use in your electric motorcycle? Besides permanent magnet DC motors there are also Series-Wound and Brushless DC motors as well as some new AC motors. Series-wound motors are similar to permanent magnet DC motors. They are bulkier, but produce fantastic torque! You could use a series-wound drive motor out of a junked electric forklift. Do not use a pump motor. Those typically do not have a male driveshaft. Same goes for electric golf cart motors. They may otherwise sound like a good motor for a cycle, but unless you have a way to easily connect a standard sprocket to the motor, they will be a lot of tinkering to make work for your project.( A friend of mine is currently working on designing a kit with a specialty part allowing anyone to build their own electric motorcycle using an off-the-shelf golf cart motor. Look for that in the future.)

Brushless DC and AC motors are very similar. They require dedicated controllers designed specifically for them. If you go that route, buy your motor and controller as a matched set through a reputable dealer.

in general, all these motors are air-cooled, so you dont need a motorcycle with a radiator on it.

For planning purposes, you want to know that your motor will FIT in the motorcycle before you buy it! Made sure to measure the space you have and the physical size of the motor before you buy. If the motor is not in front of you in person, dont worry, most mainstream manufactured motors have diagrams that you can download, that include the physical dimensions. (See Etek_Diagram PDF file attached below.)

Besides the diagram showing physical dimensions, it also lists important information on torque, voltage, RPM, etc. That helps you plan out your cycle design as well.

Once you have your motor selected and in-hand, you need some way to physically mount the motor where you need it to go in the motorcycle.

To do this build an Adapter Plate or Motor Mounting Plate.

I built mine from a piece of scrap 1/4 aluminum plate that I had around. The plate needs to have a hole in the middle of it for the driveshaft to pass through and four holes in the appropriate locations for the bolts to mount the motor to the plate.

The plate also needs mounting points to connect it to the frame of the motorcycle. On this project, I re-used the existing mounting points in the frame of the cycle where the engine and transmission originally bolted in place. Those holes are already just about where I needed them and it meant I didnt have to make any new holes in the frame.

Rather than making a template from scratch, or drilling holes based on careful measurements of the motor, I simply made my own paper template based on the PDF file that I already had of the mechanical drawing of the motor. In a graphic design program, I simply made sure that the measurements on the diagram matched up to 100% actual scale, and printed it out on paper. The motor is compact enough that the whole image fit on one 8.5×11 sheet.

I cut out the piece of paper and then glued it (rubber cement) to the aluminum plate. Using a drill press, I simply drilled holes of the appropriate size (the size is marked right on the diagram!) right through the crosshairs on the piece of paper. That gave me a plate of aluminum with a central hole for the driveshaft, and four holes to mount the motor to the plate. I test-fit the plate in place on the motorcycle, with the drive-shaft hole lining up with the marks on the frame indicating where the chain originally went. I then sketched right on the plate tabs of where the plate would extend to the existing mounting points on the frame – one on the bottom and one on the high side of the back. I will later add another attachment point on the front with an angle bracket.

At that point, I could just put the motor and plate together to confirm that all the holes lined up. I also traced the outline of the motor on the plate.

Once I rounded off all the edges, I put the plate in the motorcycle, and ran threaded rods (3/8 and 5/16, which matched the holes in the frame) through the frame attachment points, through the plate, and through the matching attachment point. Stainless steel nylock nuts and washers went on both sides of the adapter plate and on the outsides of the motorcycle frame. If I ever need to adjust the position of the motor side-to-side, I can loosen the nuts on either side of the plate and move it one direction or the other.

This motorcycle is powered by four off-the-shelf batteries. They areOptima Yellow-Tops, rated at 55 amp-hour capacity, and cranking current of nearly 900 amps. They areAGM- absorbed glass matt. Thats a style of lead-acid battery that is sealed up and the electrolyte is soaked into coils of fiberglass matting. They cannot leak, spill, or slosh around.

While there are other types of batteries available, this seemed to be the best combination of price and performance for my project.Floodedlead-acid batteries are really not acceptable for a motorcycle. Besides being challenging in adding water, the movement and possible tipping-over of a motorcycle would not be good for flooded batteries.

Sealedlead-acid batteries (VRLA) would also be fine, as wouldgels. However, neither of those can crank the power as well as an AGM can, which is what gives the cycle good acceleration. Lithium batteries are excellent for weight, capacity, and power, but are currently only for those with higher budgets. If you use lithium batteries, everything else about the project is the same, except for a different battery charger and a battery management system.

Going back to some simple math, we can get an estimate of motorcycle range. I have four batteries, each of which is 12 volts, but they are wired up in one series string of all four of them, so its really 48V in total.

So, in theory, 48V x 55AH = 2640 watt-hours capacity. 100 watt-hours per mile is a typical ball-park number for energy consumption per mile on an electric motorcycle. (Of course that does vary by weather, speed, riding style, etc.) But this is just a rough estimate.

Just a real rough estimate, but its good enough to say Will this vehicle meet my needs? Will it perform the way I want it too?

In this case, yes. I only live a couple miles outside town, and the next town is ten miles away. I can use this cycle to drive all over locally, and head to the next town over and back on one charge.

In real-world driving tests, the single-charge range of the cycle came to 23 miles if I drove full-tilt, and 32 if I was doing easy acceleration and in the city 25 mph zones.

Lead batteries are NOT light. It helps to make a mock-up from foam or cardboard, so that you have a LIGHTWEIGHT, easy-to-handle version of the battery to experiment with. I like to think of this as the poor-mans C.A.D.

If you are into computer design, there are many great programs out there to help you create 3D images and think in three-dimensional space.Google Sketchupseems to be getting fairly popular. Still, you really cant beat an actual, physical object in your hands. I just prefer something that weighs less than lead.

In my earliest version of the cycle, I had three batteries in it. Then I moved up to four (for more range and higher top-speed.) I was never sure how to fit four inside the frame in a way that fit well and looked good. By using cardboard mock-ups, I was able to experiment with various arrangements of batteries until I found one that I liked. In this case, the fact that I could mount these batteries turned on end allowed me to come up with a configuration that I liked.

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