Keep in mind this Instructables was published! Ive learned a lot since than, expanded my workshop, and am attempting to turn Power Laces into a viable, soon to be released product!
Check out more information, and thank you for visiting and commenting!
Inspired by Back to The Future II, this project is less Practical than Proof of Concept, but hopefully itll tide you over until Nike comes out with something more polished.
This was also the first time I worked with an Arduino microcontroller, and I wanted to get some experience with the little guy.
Operation is quite simple- step into the shoe and a force sensor reads the pressure of your foot and activates two servo motors, which apply tension to the laces, tightening the shoe. A touch switch reverses the servos.
Due to budget constraints, I only modified one shoe. Where did I put that darn sports almanac?!
And if you get a chance, vote for me in the Instructable USB contest!
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A shoe// a hightop with a lot of padding and undersole seemed easiest to work with and modify
Motor shield// The kit from works great, and allows control of multiple types of motors
Servo Motors//again, also from adafruit.com. Gotta save on that shipping whenever you can!
Sheet metal// about 4 x 4, enough to keep its shape but easily trimmed with shears
LED and a couple of resistors// I only had 1Ks laying around, so thats what I used
9 Volt case, with built in battery clip and switch
Insulated copper wire// I used high and medium gauge
Plastic zip ties, various sizes// I went through a lot of these
Plastic 1/2 cable loops//used for organizing cables
1/8 braided nylon paracord// 10 should be enough
Just the basics- soldering iron, screwdrivers, etc. A hot glue gun is handy, too.
A USB A to B cable and a computer to load the Sketch to the Arduino.
Cut six lengths of cord, each about 18 long. Remove the inner core and save for future projects.
Fit the zip ties into the holes for the shoelaces on one side. I fit in 5, leaving one space inbetween each zip tie.
Fit the shell of the cord over the zip tie. Dont trim the end, as shown in one of the pictures. Keep in long, as later the end of this will connect to the Servo.
I trimmed the clipping part off the zip tie, and then used a lighter to melt the cord down, giving it a cleaner appearance. If you apply some quick heat to a 1/4 area at the end here, it will stiffen and prevent the it from coming out (thats what she said.)
Screw on the plastic loops and thread through on the other end.
Save the 6th length of outershell cord for later in the project.
The ankle strap is mounted pretty much the same way as the lower laces. The ankle strap runs the opposite way of the other straps, to put some counter-force on the servos when they put the laces under tension.
I put a small martini shaker into the shoe to act as a foot analog, so I could make strap adjustments and such. You want to be able to get your foot easily into the shoe, and visually the tightening laces look better if they have a lot of slack.
Trim the sheet metal to fit on the back of the shoe. My pairs have a handy little rubber part at the back and I trimmed the metal to approximate the shape.
After sanding down any rough corners and edges, drill in some holes and use some flat bottomed screws to mount the plate to the shoe. The two screws on the side actually to go into the shoe and are secured with screw nuts, but theyre wide enough apart that I dont feel them when I put the shoe on. The bottom screw just goes into the padding.
Leave a bit of a gap between the plate and the shoe for now, as later were going to put some zip ties through to attach the servo motors.
The Motor Shield is an addon circuit board that enables the Arduino to control various motors, or Servos in this case.
The Shield comes as a kit from Adafruit.com, which has the building instructions along with software libraries that you will need to program and control the Servos.
Following the instructions on the site, solder the Motor Shield together and attach it to the Arduino via the header pins.
Zip ties are used to mount the various electronic components.
The motors were attached to the mounting plate first by using some rubber cement (optional) to keep them in place, and wrapping and tightening them as much as possible with the zip ties.
Note that most of the ties thread through the space between the mounting plate and the shoe. As my zip ties werent long enough in some areas, I combined two together. After the servos were in place, I trimmed down the ties.
Beneath the motors, the battery case is mounted in much the same way, power switch outward.
Finally, the Arduino board can be attached. The holes line up with zip ties on both side, and is held in place by screws attached to them.
Before attaching the Motor shield, some modifications must be made.
Is your soldering iron still warm? Time to add some of the bells and whistles.
As you can see in the pics, I tested the components and programing with a breadboard attached. Since Ive done the heavy lifting you can skip this part, but it doesnt hurt to double check before everything is set in place.
After the program is uploaded (posted at the end of the instrutable) we can permanently mount the parts. First, we solder a resistor and to one pin of the LED and a length of wire to both pins.
That assembly is then pushed through an unused shoelace socket, and the wires are ran to the Arduino, using hot glue to keep everything in place and out of the way.Make sure you know which of the wires goes to the positive pin of the LED!
The Force sensor is mounted next. Soldering is not advised as the plastic may melt, so I wrapped some wire around the leads and hot glued them into place. The sensor was then glued and duct taped into the bottom of the shoe, right where my heel would rest.
The wires, also glued and taped into place, go up the back of the shoe and to the Arduino.
Finally, after we grab another resistor and a bit of medium gauge wire, we can begin soldering everything into place:
1.The positive wire of the LED goes to digital pin 2.
2.One force sensor wire (doesnt matter which) is soldered to +5v.
3.The other force sensor wire goes to Analog Pin 0.
4.Also connected to Ana. Pin 0 is a resistor. The other end of the resistor goes to Ground.
5.Also connect the negative LED pin to Ground.
6.A four inch spiral wrap of wire is soldered to Analog Pin 5. This is the touch switch- touching this wire firmly will cause the servo motors to move into the unlocked position.
7.Finally, plug in the servo motors, making sure to get the orientation right. My Arduino sketch assumes the left (looking from the back) servo is plugged into the right most servo pin, though this can easily be changed in the software.
Now we just have to connect the laces to the servos and the hardware portion of the project is finished.
This usually requires a lot of little adjustments to get it right- you want enough slack to get your foot comfortably in the shoe, but when it laces up you want it to be visually appealing.
I used zip ties to secure the laces, and attached them to the servo arms, making sure the servos are in the unlaced position. The sketch will turn the servos 180 degrees from the starting point, tightening the laces.
Plug the USB cable into the Arduino and the computer, and open the .pde sketch with the Arduino IDE. Make sure you have download the motor shield libraries as detailed in its instructions.
Click Upload and within a few seconds itll be transferred and the shoe is now ready for use!
Just a caveat, this is my first time working with the Arduino and programming in general, so Im sure the sketch is nowhere near optimized and could use some fine tuning. Feel free to play around with it!
Did you make this project? Share it with us!
How can I get the code that goes in the arduino?
how did you make prototype 2.0 could you give an instructable for that please…. Thank you!!!
There is a company called AMERICAN HIGH VOLTAGE originally from El Cajon in San Diego. They relocated to Elko, Nevada. I worked for them for a couple of years. The owner, Gary Hannington has a PHD in electronics. He is a genius. Anyways they specialize in making self contained potted and canned indestructable electronic devices smaller, much smaller than the original. For instance the Israeli Air force went to him with their pilots helmets that had 16 oz. of electronics in their heads up display visors which doesnt seem like a lot until youre pulling 5 or 6 Gs then its like 25 pounds being thrown around attached to your head. This guy got the electronics down to 5 or 6 ozs. Hes expensive but you might give him a call and see what he can do for you if youre really thinking of selling these things. I mean theyve got to be bullet proof
can u pls help me in prototyping ur version 2.0 I like it very much
just tell me how u wired and mounted the electronics under the sole..
Just in time for October 21, 2015 – the REAL future in BTTF. Thanks for making the future! 🙂
Cool idea but it is not a working concept. The laces dont actually tighten down.
thats why Step 8 says This usually requires a lot of little adjustments to get it right-
you wont be able to wear them in 5gs but with proper little adjustments you will be able to have each lace firm up enough upon activation so the shoe wont kick off doing the Can-Can
This is amazing! There is a wearable tech contest which I think you should enter!
All you need now is his self-drying jacket
Hoverboards have been invented… search up hendo hoverboard on kickstarter. It can hover on copper surfaces
80s style windbreaker (the water proof kind) sewn inside a not so water proof jacket, small PV cells, small rechargable batteries in a water proof container, some 1u server fans, lots of ducting to go between the jackets – trigger the fans, air blows through everything…. ooooh wait, how to waterproof the fans… maybe have a valve system that opens when the fan is in operation? Hmmm…
and this is where my creativity falls flat in the coy pond.
Alright I just wrote down all the supplies ill need Im going to make a pair of these.